Given the success of our restaurant and in response to numerous requests from our regular patrons, we have decided to share with you our passion for Vietnamese cuisine, and some of our little culinary secrets. Thus “Saigon cooking class, by Hoa Tuc”, was born.

We have selected for you traditional favorite dishes such as the “Pho Bo” (rice noodle soup with beef) or the “Cha Gio (fried spring rolls). This is also an opportunity to discover our signature dishes such as the “mustard leaves rolled with crispy vegetables and shrimps”, or our “spicy beef salad with Kumquat, baby white eggplant and lemongrass”.

What make our cooking classes so special and unique are the small class size and the great care taken in all details.
Details that make all the difference and insure a great cooking class: discovering the fresh exotic ingredients, cooking with unusual Vietnamese kitchenware in a beautiful set up, surrounded by a thoughtful staff speaking English.

From total novices to food professionals we believe that a cooking class is always a funny and interesting way to discover Vietnamese culture.

The beauty of Hoa Tuc (which translates as “Opium Poppy”) is both in its concept and its execution. Contemporary Vietnamese cuisine is offered in a beautiful, unusual setting that takes its inspiration from Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and the site’s original purpose.

The overhang at the entrance is made of cast iron and frosted glass – inspired by the Metropolitan metro entrances in vogue in Paris in the early 1900s. The front terrace is a bustling place, where diners can enjoy the business set lunch (three courses, weekdays only) and observe the action in the courtyard.
Walk around to the side, and you’ll find a long lush patio with plush benches dotted with luxurious silk covered cushions, where Saigon Cooking Class Chefs offer interesting and funny Vietnamese cooking class.

Our menu focuses on Vietnamese food for the more modern palate, with unusual touches that make it especially interesting. No MSG, of course, is used, and most meat dishes can be made in either seafood or vegetarian versions.

The wine list, concocted by a renowned sommelier, is the first of its kind in Vietnam and great care was taken to select each and every wine for its ability to work well with the bright, vibrant flavours of Vietnamese cuisine.
Overall possibly the most exciting Vietnamese option in Ho Chi Minh City.

Hands-on Cooking Class

The emphasis is on seasonal traditional food which both tastes and looks delicious but is simple to prepare and recreate at home.
You will discover and use Vietnamese kitchenware to realize and enjoy a tasty 3 courses Vietnamese meal. To end on a sweet touch, we will take care to complete this meal with a delicious seasonal dessert.
During the class you just concentrate on the pleasure of discovering and cooking, we’ll give you all the recipes in detail at the end. Our Vietnamese Chef conduces his classes in English.

Of course we will adapt the menu to vegetarians or allergic people. Please, let us know your booking in advance, so we can accommodate for you. Kids from 7 years old are welcome.

Tuesday to Sunday, 2 sessions:
Summer rates from 13th Jun till 18th Sept:
Adult rate: $35 instead of $39! -Market visit with our Chef offered for 3  classses purchased!  Kids* rate: $25 (meal only: $10)
*Kids till 14 years old.
Only small group: from 1 to 8 people.

Current menu, offer a cooking class, information and reservation: contact us.
We are located at the first floor of “Hoa Tuc” restaurant, in the old opium refinery of Saigon, in the heart of down town at 74/7 Hai Ba Trung Street, district 1. Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

Private Cooking Parties

There’s no better way to mark a special occasion – either a birthday, a family meeting or an anniversary – than with a wooden spoon in hand and friends or family all around.
Each cooking party is customized to accommodate your goals and budget.

Duration: about 3 hours.
Cost from $39.
We welcome groups from 7 to 15 people.

For a quote or more information please email:i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.com
or call (08)3 825 84 85.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa Tuc, at Hoa Tuc restaurant.
Opposite to the hotel Park Hyatt. After you pass under the yellow arch, take the passage way to the end, and to your left you will find us.

Address: The Courtyard, 74/7  Hai Ba Trung, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh city.
Tel: (08) 3 825 84 85          Fax: 3 825 16 77          Email: contact@saigoncookingclass.com

Traditionally worn under a blouse or overcoat, the yếm is on hand is a symbol of modesty. As one 17th century observer, the Italian priest Cristoforo Borri remarked of Vietnamese woman: “the clothes they wear could be probably the most covert in Southeast Asia”.

On the other hand, great pride and care was taken in the beauty and design of the Yếm. As Vietnam became one of the finest producers of silk in the world, much attention was given to the bodice, which was made in many colors for different occasions and for different social strata.

All around ancient Thang Long city (now Hanoi), fabric weaving from traditional craft villages of Nghi Tàm, Dâu and Thúy Ái developed to exquisite heights. By the 18th Century, Vietnam made some of the finest silk in the world, such as vân tứ quý (silk cloth with woven design of the four seasons), or vân hồng điệp (pink silk brocade).

These beautiful silks could be found in the markets of Thang Long, available to women of all classes. In his 1732 book entitled “Vương Quốc Đàng Ngoài” (The Kingdom of North Vietnam), writer S.Baron noted: “The technique of weaving silk cloth has developed here to such a degree the rich and the poor can all wear silk clothes”

Modest and beautiful, the simple yếm in many ways symbolizes the traditional virtues of Vietnamese women. The 17th century priest Borri was struck by their manner, calling them “broad-minded and carefree, “with” a gentle temperament”.

The traditional yếm can still be found in the countryside, worn by girls in traditional festivals, such the Love Duets Festivals of Bac Ninh. But as times changed, so did fashions.

In the early 20th Century as the modern áo dài (the long split tunic typically worn by Vietnamese women) appeared, it became difficult to wear yếm underneath, and Vietnamese began wearing western brassieres instead.

However, the yếm hasn’t gone away, it’s just changed forms. The traditional yếm has been stylized as a part of the modern áo dài. Instead of a high collar, some áo dài have yếm-like top, with two strings tied together at the nape revealing the bare shoulder.

And modern Vietnamese girls have adopted a stylized and even more revealing yếm to wear with jeans, much like a halter top, with a fully exposed back.

But whatever variations exist, the hidden charm of the yếm worn by Vietnamese women of old remains to heir modern Vietnamese women look as elegant and graceful as ever.

Source: Heritage

With a relaxing atmosphere, surrounded by banana trees, majestic Phuong trees and the outdoor of barbecue dishes, the restaurant brings customer feeling of being out of Saigon and all of its problems. The restaurant of 800 m2 has installed from the beginning a removable roof to protect the guests in case of rain.

The restaurant is the modern barbecue specialist. The menu includes various Vietnamese and International barbecue dishes respecting. A dinner with drinks & fresh dishes is around vnd 120,000/person. The Barbecue Combos are selections of the restaurant’s specialties: Beef with Cheese, Beef with 5 Spices, Grilled beef on sugar cane,  Grilled fish fillet, Squid with Satay or Shrimp Skewers which are grilled by customer themselves on the tables.

We can highlight that all dishes are cooked without any fat, so your dinner should be at the same time flavored and healthy.

For more discoveries, a large option of meat (Deer, Goat, Rabbit…) and fish (Red Snapper) also comes in the form of barbecue. The guest will also find special International and Vietnamese appetizers: Cheese Sticks, Heart of palm and beef fillet salad, Fried Spring Rolls, Tu Xuyen Beef Salad, Tofu Salad…To finish the dinner, a Lau Thai full of fragrances is a good advice and for dessert, a good choice could be a scoop of Ice-cream, a Chocolate Fondue or a Crepe- French Sttyle.

During the day, the restaurant is also an amazing place to relax, with a lunch or a drink with Free Wi-Fi or just to skim through newspapers or books from the Restaurant’s Library Corner.

At night, the garden is full of odors,  ambiance and music with guests sharing cheerfully the barbecue preparation with your beloved ones.

Especially we are willing to organize Party for Customers, The Pax of  Party from 8 people , the pax for 1 person is about 120.000 to 250.000 VND .

We also serve in-home full service catering. Please contact us , that we can organize your Party with the best service.
Come and enjoy the cheerful barbecue environment!

For information

Barbecue Garden Restaurant

Add: 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.1, HCMC (At the corner of NKKN-Le Thanh Ton)
Tel: (84 823 33 40
Email : reservation.bbqgarden@gmail.com (Contact Mr . Hung)
Websi: www.barbecuegarden.com Open everyday : 11AM – 11PM

For the Americans who are used to having a cholesterol laden breakfast of ham, bacon and eggs the Vietnamese national dish, beef pho noodles soup is a literal pleasure in every scoop. Pho has become an addiction among the food connoisseurs because of its exotic ingredients and great health giving properties.

Vietnamese are of the staunch opinion that a meat dish should taste just like a meat dish and therefore no vegetables are added into this soup while cooking. The cooking style of this healthy broth is a sight to behold as it involves a lot of techniques that avoid cholesterol and fats.

A large cauldron of water is boiled and beef marrow, knuckle bones, beef chucks are cooked and the water drained to avoid the impurities that cloud the soup. They are then transferred to another cauldron and simmered so this makes the remaining fat contents to float on the top. It is effectively removed using a ladle and charred onions and ginger is added so that it gives an exotic flavor to the soup.

The eternal spices like star anise, cinnamon and cloves are added so that it hides the smell of beef and accentuates the smell of spices. All these ingredients are allowed to simmer in the pot for about an hour so that the aroma and flavor creeps into the beef chunks.

Meanwhile, preheated bowls scooped with rice noodles are topped with thin slices of beef and raw sirloin. They are then immersed with ladles of the boiling broth so that it cooks the raw beef strips arranged and makes it to a perfectly chewy temper. Then, the garnishing is done which is not just a sprinkle of this or a dash of that but with wholesome flavorful herbs. Fresh herbs are not chopped but cut and served into individual bowls. This assures that with every chunky bite a real burst of flavor erupts in the mouth!

The pho Vietnamese restaurant chain in Flushing, New York is a chock-a –block eatery is inexpensive and serves the best pho noodles soup. The customers throng there as a large bowl of steaming noodles with all the paraphernalia is got for just 6 dollars.

(By Aurum Writers for BlogOfAsia)

Dinh Thong Nhat (Reunification Palace)

135 Nam Ky Khoi Ngia, District 1
Tel: (08) 822 3652.
Website: www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn

Nha Trung Bay Toi Ac Chien Tranh Xam Luoc (War Remnants Museum)
Formerly known as the Museum of American War Crimes, the name has been toned down so as not to offend its US visitors and is now the War Remnants Museum. This is not a museum for the sensitive as it houses instruments of torture and hundreds of photographs of atrocities committed during the 20th century and, in particular, the Vietnam War. Visitors cannot fail to be moved as the exhibits provide a context for a period of history many only know from old newsreels and Hollywood movies. At the front of the museum is a small collection of military hardware and, most interestingly, the mobile guillotine used by the French colonists to dispense justice throughout the country before WWII.

28 Vo Van Tan, District 3
Tel: (08) 930 5587.

Notre Dame Cathedral
The twin towers of Notre Dame Cathedral have been a familiar landmark in Ho Chi Minh City since the 1880s. In front of the cathedral in a small garden is a delicate statue of the Virgin Mary. The interior of the cathedral is rather plain, unlike most French cathedrals, with no stained glass, but it is a cool escape from the heat outside.

Dong Khoi, District 1

Buu Dien Sai gon (Post Office)
Across from the Notre Dame Cathedral, the vast Post Office was also built in the late 19th century in European style. The interior has hardly been touched since it was built and is dominated by a huge portrait of Ho Chi Minh. The building always seems busy but most people are just visitors rather than customers.

2 Cong Xa Paris, District 1
Tel: (08) 824 4244.

Thao Cam Vien (Zoo and Botanical Gardens)
The Botanical Gardens were established by the French in 1864 and once had the reputation of being some of the finest in Asia. Now, however, the area is just a pleasant one for a stroll in the heart of the city, among tropical plants and trees. The zoo is not up to Western standards, with poor enclosures.

Nguyen Binh Khiem, District 1
Tel: (08) 829 3728.

Ho Chi Minh City Museum
Housed in the former building of the Government of Cochinchina, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum (formerly the Revolutionary Museum) contains artifacts, such as weapons, uniforms, medals and old photos, from the period of Communist struggle against the French and the Americans. Unfortunately, the exhibits are only labelled in Vietnamese but some are self-explanatory. Outside the museum is a collection of military hardware including a tank and a helicopter.

65 Ly Tu Trong, District 1
Tel: (08) 940 2060.

Vien Bao Tang Lich Su (Historical Museum)
Located just inside the entrance to the Botanical Gardens and Zoo, the Historical Museum houses a collection of artifacts covering the last 2,000 years of Vietnamese history including items belonging to ancient cultures such as Dong Son, Oc Eo and Cham. The museum was built in 1929 and the collection assembled by the Ecole Francaise d’Extreme Orient.

Nguyen Binh Khiem, District 1
Tel: (08) 829 8146.

Cholon (Chinatown)
Cholon is in District 5 and is a maze of narrow streets, bustling with people. Most of Vietnam’s ethnic Chinese live here and they are the largest single ethnic minority group in the country. Merchants began to settle in Cholon in the 1770s, although many ethnic Chinese fled the country in 1975.

The Thien Hau Pagoda is one of Cholon’s must-sees. It is dedicated to the goddess Thien Hau, protector of the sea. Photographers are spoilt for choice with the ornate decoration inside the pagoda and the statues of Thien Hau. It is popular with worshippers (the air is always heavy with the smell of incense) and there are regular festivals during the lunar calendar.

Binh Tay Market throngs with people from early morning and until 2300 as a night market, and the gloomy, narrow walkways are crammed with consumer items and exotic foodstuffs. The sound of bargaining, quite often in Chinese rather than Vietnamese, and the calls of the vendors constantly fill the air. This is one of the best places to see the locals going about their daily lives.

Ao Dai- A lasting impression for any visitor to Vietnam is the beauty of Vietnamese women dressed in their Ao Dais. These long flowing dresses worn over loose-fitting trousers are considered to be the national dress of Vietnamese women.

Early versions of the Ao Dai date back to 1744, when men and women to wear a trouser and gown ensemble that buttoned down the front. Although popular, men wore it less often than women, and generally only on ceremonial occasions such as at weddings and funerals. It took another twenty years before the next major design change occurred and nearly another two hundred years before the modern Ao Dai emerged.

The original Ao Dai was loosely tailored with four panels (Ao Tu Than), two of which were tied in the back. In 1930, a Vietnamese fashion designer and writer, Cat Tuong, lengthened the top so it reached the floor. Tuong also fitted the bodice to the curves of the body and moved the buttons from the front to an opening along the shoulder and side seam. As a result of these changes, Ao Dai became a contoured, full-length dress. The dress splits into a front and back panel from the waist down. During the 1950s two tailors in Saigon, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors, started producing the gowns with raglan sleeves. This created a diagonal seam running from the collar to the underarm and is the preferred style today.

There have been many stylish alterations in color and collar design in the past four decades. Most noticeable is the gradual shortening of the gown’s length, such that today, it is usually just below the knee. Variations in the neck collar, between boat and mandarin style, are common. But more adventurous alterations such as low scooped necklines, puffed sleeves, and off-the-shoulder designs are emerging as more women experiment with fashion. Less rigid control over color and access to new fabrics have also created dazzling results. Every Ao Dai is custom-made, accounting for the fit that creates a flattering look for each woman.

It is hard to think of a more elegant, demure and yet sexy outfit, that suits Vietnamese women of all ages than the Ao Dai.

+ Cai Be Floating market: Cai Be, one of the many well-known floating markets in the western region of southern Vietnam was formed in the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century. The Cai Be Floating Market is always busy, bearing all the characteristics of the locals’ life in the western region.

+ Binh Hoa Phuoc Island: The island emerges from the middle of the Tien River, just opposite to the Vinh Long Town . The island has four communes, including An Binh, Binh Hoa Phuoc, Hoa Ninh, and Dong Phu in Long Ho District.  The island covers an area of about 6,000ha. Its soil is fertile and rice, and there is fresh water and fruit trees. Several fruit orchard are opened to the public. Visitors can walk among the trees, relax in hammocks, try all kinds of delicious tropical fruits, and sometimes ones have a meal or stay overnight.

+ Life On The River: The people living in the Mekong Delta make their living as farmers and fishermen. Often, they live right on the edge of the rivers or canals on various structures built from whatever materials found. Consequently, the architecture along the delta varies from place to place. Often, many homes have fisheries right under them. Enterprising individuals build a cage like structure of bamboo beneath their homes on these waterways to house fishes. As the fishes grew, they sell the whole batch to processors from the city and start with new ones.          Life in the delta is tightly woven with its rivers as daily activities and businesses are conducted on its banks. Markets, stores, ship yards, repair shops are some of the more popular trades.

Taxis from the airport to the city center would take as little as 15 minutes in lighter traffic (which only happens between 11:00 am and 4:00 pm). This should cost no more than 80,000VND. The more typical experience is to creep along in near-standstill traffic for 30 minutes or more, at a cost of about 120,000VND to 150,000VND from district 1, inclusive of airport tax. A company called Sasco has the airport taxi concession, and their cars are the first you will see by the curb. They are OK, just a bit more expensive than rivals such as Vinasun, Vinataxi, and Mai Linh, which can be found waiting in abundance 50 meters away, further out into the parking lot. Whichever taxi you choose, make sure the driver uses the meter. Major taxi companies are fairly honest, but if you want to avoid all stress, you could simply buy a “Taxi coupon” at one of the counter after the custom declaration & x-ray at international airport terminal. Budget Car Rental has recently become the first international car rental company in Vietnam. They offer English speaking drivers and new model vehicles at affordable prices. You can find them just outside customs decleration next to the taxi stands. The black VIP taxi (Vinasun, Mai Linh) will give you premium service with better Lexus car at higher rate. These maybe unnecessary expenses for a short trip to the hotel.

Taxi coupons of Airport taxi & Saigon taxi (from airport to downtown or vise versa) can be purchased at this Centre.

By Car

Hiring a car in Saigon doesn’t mean you will drive that car. Traffic rules in Vietnam don’t allow short term visitors to drive, even if you have an International Driving License. Foreign residents can apply, with truly complicated procedures, for a permission to drive, which will expire together with their visa. With these traffic rules, cars for hire in Vietnam is chauffeured-cars. Costs vary to distance and car brand name. You can hire here a 2001 model Mercedes-Benz or a Toyota from the 80s or even a Volkswagen from the 50s.

Service in Saigon have more than 100 cars for hire. All of our cars are new models of BMW, TOYOTA Camry, etc. Rental prices vary to distance and length of rental. Visit this website for further information about Ho Chi Minh Car Rental.

By Bus

City buses are operated with subsidies from the government as a promotion campaign to encourage people using the bus system instead of jumping on their bike whenever going out. Ticket price is 1000VND/person for the whole trip. The buses are painted in red and yellow, with the bus number on its wind shield. Check the bus route at bus stops or you can also read terminus name painted on the bus. Visit this website for further information about Ho Chi Minh By Bus

By Cyclos

This three wheels pedaled vehicle is phasing out of city life, as more and more streets are banning the cyclos from entering. Cyclos prices are bargain-based and about one third of taxi fares. You can chatter one cyclo for some hours, but make sure that the driver knows how much you are going to pay him at the end of your trip. Do not negotiate by unit prices, as it will cause many disputes over payment.

Bicycles and Motorbikes for rent

Bicycles and motorbikes for rent are available along the pavements near hotels and around the back-packers area. Many places will ask you to leave your passport as deposit, other places just ask your name and the place your are staying. Prices are negotiable, a motorbike is about 6-12$ per day, while bicycles cost around 4 – 6$ per day.

By Air

Tan Son Nhat (Tân Sơn Nhất) (IATA: SGN | ICAO: VVTS) is Vietnam’s largest international airport. There are two terminals: the new international terminal, which took over all international flights from September 2nd 2007, and the old terminal, which will be reserved for domestic traffic. Immigration is notoriously strict and can be time consuming, but if your papers are in order you should be fine. Note that the all-white departure cards are only for those without the ‘yellow paper’ received upon arrival. The recently introduced No. 152 air-con airport bus is the cheapest way into the city, and will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area, or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. The price was recently increased to 3000 dong. Upon exiting the airport, turn right and walk towards the domestic airport, about 5 minutes walk, in front of the airport across a small road you will see the bus waiting there. Taxi drivers may tell you there are no more airport buses- ignore them.

By Train

The train from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi stops at various stations and provides an opportunity to enjoy the changing scenery. The train can be even slower than bus travel, but it is more relaxed and you’re likely to have decent legroom. Air-conditioned express trains take 32 hours to complete the itinerary. Except during the winter in northern Vietnam, non-air-conditioned trains can be very hot despite electric fans, even at night. Petty theft can be a problem, especially in budget class. In some areas, children throwing things at carriages, everything from rocks to cow dung, is another problem, and you are advised to keep the metal shield on the window in place.

Tickets are available at some ticket offices and at the Station. Except for Tet holiday (around Mid January to Mid February) and Universities entry exams seasons (around June to July), you usually can get a ticket before departure at the station. Visit this website for further information about Trains in Ho Chi Minh

By Bus and Car

From Ho Chi Minh City, ramshackle buses run to every where of the country at rock-bottom fares. There are two main long distance bus stations; one is “Ben xe Mien Dong” (Eastern Bus Station) for bus running to the Eastern & Northern provinces; the other is “Ben xe Mien Tay” (Western Bus Station) for bus running to Mekong Delta and down to Ha tien, Rach gia, Kien Giang.

Do not expect people at these bus stations to speak any English. However, names of destinations are written at every ticket counters and on wind shields of every buses.

If you are lucky enough, you may get on a non-stop bus. Otherwise, the bus will stop many times to pick-up and drop-off passengers.

Some travel agent around the Pham Ngu Lao Area offer foreign tourists non-stop air-conditioned bus to main tourist destinations such as Phan Thiet, Nha Trang, Hue, Da nang, Hanoi, or My Tho, Can Tho, and even to Cambodia. Prices are higher than local buses, but convenient enough.

Rented cars, which usually come with drivers, are available at reasonable prices. (Click here to view the prices). While, in theory, international driving licenses are valid in Vietnam, the traffic in large cities and the haphazard observance of rules of the road can overwhelm the first-time visitor. In accidents, the larger vehicle, or the party with more resources, is generally expected to accept liability. Therefore, it is prudent to leave the driving to a native who is more able to negotiate his way out of a dispute. The Vietnamese drive on the right-hand side of the road.

By Boat

Many resort areas are served by ship routes at reasonable prices. Hydrofoil express boat are available from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau and to My Tho, Can Tho.

Some companies offer canoes for rent, but the prices are expensive.

If you are looking for a great selection of places to stay with discount prices, visit Ho Chi Minh Hotel for more information.”

At the market, antique collectors, sellers, and enthusiasts can trade and exchange their knowledge and passion for antiquity.

The market is divided into many sections and sells antiques such as motorbikes, cars, paintings, lights, cameras, fans, clocks, eyeglasses, musical instruments, jewelry and a host of other used items.

Antique lovers can purchase Sachs motorbikes from the 1950s or 1940s to 60s-style Vespas and Lambrettas or a 1958-model Mercedes and relevant spare parts.

“I am really moved to see Vespa scooters here that I met in Paris in 1950s. It arouses my childhood memory with lines of Vespa on the streets in Paris at that time,” said Bob Amy, a photographer from Calgary City.

Zippo cigarette lighters, American rings, eyeglasses, and Swiss watches in old, unique and meticulous design are also available for purchase.

Antique enthusiasts can also decorate their home with old oil lamps and original Yamaha and Morris-brand pianos and guitars.

The market is also an ideal venue to find antique phones, tiger fingernails, lion or wild pig’s teeth or a set of Japanese swords.

To preserve old keepsakes and provide more space for antiques seekers to share their passion, Dzung Tran, a property businessman established the website www.saigonvechai.com six years ago. Since its launch, it has attracted about 5,000 members. On the website, members can view antiques as well as their origin, age and value.

“Together with a passion for antiques, we also do community affairs such as visiting and giving gifts to the elderly, orphans and disabled people twice a month,” Tran said. He added that the members also hold a charity program in key holidays such as spring, Christmas and big national festivals to help underprivileged people.

At the café, enthusiasts can learn how to distinguish true antiques from fakes and the correct way to collect and preserve them. Before purchasing an antique, buyers will be given advice and information about the items origin, age and value. For further assurance, they can even try before they buy, to ensure its value.

Cao Minh Café is located at 255/47 No Trang Long Street in HCMC’s Binh Thanh District, tel: (08) 3516 0151, website: www.saigonvechai.com.

By Uyen Vien in HCMC

It’s a little realised fact that the Cu Chi tunnels predated US involvement in Vietnam, with the first tunnels being dug after the end of World War II in the late 1940s. In the following decades the system became more comprehensive and the tunnels and chambers more elaborate. The US tried first to attack the tunnels from within by sending soldiers down into the tunnels to fight their way through. These brave soldiers, operating under dual disadvantages of their size and not knowing the territory, endured a horrific fatality rate. When that was shelved, the generals decided to attack the tunnels from the air, first defoliating land then bombarding it with heavy bombs, including weaponry specifically designed to collapse the tunnels. Through all of this the tunnel networks survived. It wasn’t until the late 1960s when American B52s carpet-bombed the area that substantial sections of the tunnels were finally destroyed.

Despite all the bombings in their town, the Cu Chi people were able to continue their lives beneath the soil, where they slept, ate, planned attacks, healed their sick, and taught their young. Some even wed and gave birth underground, but over 10,000 lost their lives here. I went on a tour with the Sinh Cafe whose offices are in the Pham Ngu Lao backpackers area of Ho Chi Minh City and it cost me 136,000 VND (about $8 including lunch) which also included a trip to the Cao Dai Great Temple at Tay Ninh but you still have to entrance fee of 80,000 VND. When we arrived we were shown a black & white propaganda film and then our guide showed us the hidden entrances to the tunnels and various traps and home-made weapons that were used. The tunnels are extremely small with an average height of between 1m and 1m 30 so, being as I’m 6ft 2″ (185cm), there was no way I was going down! You can also fire various weapons such as an AK-47, M16, M60 or Magnum 44 where each bullet costs between 20-25,000 VND but for a minimum of 10 bullets.

Like the salad roll, the “banh xeo” is a do-it-yourself dish that involves the messy but delicious process of wrapping the crepe in lettuce with cilantro and basil. Though the filling might fall out on your table, you will be completely lost in the crispy, warm combination of lettuce and crepe, and the attentive staff will happily clean up after you.

Different styles of “banh xeo”

“Banh xeo” is prepared differently throughout the country. Tourists traveling about in Vietnam are sure to encounter a different recipe, and sometimes even a different name, for “banh xeo” depending on which region and province they are visiting.

These are a pale yellow spicey Vietnamese style crepe. One piece on the bottom, and another on top encase what is usually a salad consisting of been sprouts, prawns, boiled pork, taro and carrot. Drenched in fish sauce, and you have a deliciously messy slice of fine pleasure. The dish is round, and you cut it into slices, like a pizza, so it resembles a triangle on the main platter, but usually by the time it arrives on your plate, it could resemble anything really.

In the Southern region, the “banh xeo” is the size of a large dish and yellow in color due to the employment of turmeric powder. The Southern people always add coconut milk to the rice flour to make the crepe extra delicious. The crepe is stuffed with bean sprouts, mung beans, shrimp and pork. A sweet and sour fish sauce and fresh vegetables are used as accompaniments.

In the Central region, “banh xeo” cooks make a smaller crepe that is white in color. In Hue, the crepes are called “banh khoai”, which is similar to “banh xeo”, but smaller in size and stuffed with fennel, sour star fruit, green banana and a thick soy sauce.

In addition to selling the crepes to patrons, vendors also prepare them en masse for birthday parties and festivals. Northern preparations of “banh xeo” are similar to the ones down south, but include special fillings like slices of Indian taro and manioc. In some regions, “banh xeo” is prepared thick, but Southern crepes are characteristically thin, crispy and served fresh out of the frying pan. The secret to extra-thin crepes is a deep frying pan and a quick wrist to coat the frying pan with the batter before it starts to set.

Where to enjoy “banh xeo”?

In Hanoi, there are a lot of addresses for you to enjoy “banh xeo”, such as 22 Hang Bo Street, “Quan Ngon” restaurant at 12 Phan Boi Chau Street or “Chin Tham” restaurant on Thai Ha Street.

In HCMC, southern-style “banh xeo” can be found at Banh Xeo 46A on Dinh Cong Trang Street, District 1 or An la ghien Restaurant at 54A Nguyen Van Troi Street, Ward 15, Phu Nhuan District. Those seeking a meatless version of “banh xeo” can find them at vegetarian restaurants on An Lac Restaurant, 175/15 Pham Ngu Lao Street, District 1, and Thien Nguyen Restaurant, 174 Calmete street, District 1.

The best place to shop in Saigon, in terms of value and choice, is at the markets. Saigon’s markets are a treat for all the senses. Visiting these lively trading arenas is as much a social occasion, as a shopping trip.

At the southwest end of Le Loi, Ben Thanh Market, is easily spotted with its clock tower on the roundabout. This market is the city’s largest and has been divided into two sections: one side targeting tourist shoppers, and the other selling regular every-day goods. You can find everything from jeans and souvenirs, to flowers and fruit, in the warren of stalls. Always haggle in order to get a fair price.

Situated in the heart of Chinatown, Cho Binh Tay market is a more specialised affair. Here you can find Chinese medicine, spices, fermented fish and dried seafood. However, the best buy at this market is the vast array of silks and velvets.

The Night Market sets up each evening neat Ben Thanh Market, and is a great place to try different Vietnamese dishes. Stalls serve up food from all over Vietnam, and at very cheap prices. Once you have refuelled, you can browse the many market stalls selling everything imaginable.

The War Surplus Market is a maze of military style paraphernalia. Each stall is draped with combat clothing, cheap t-shirts and fake Marine Zippo lighters. The authenticity of much of the goods is questionable, but if you haggle you can usually get a good price.

Ben Thanh Market

Little more is known about the city’s development until the 17th century, when the Nguyen lords based in Hue expanded their sphere of influence this far south. By this time, the village had grown to be a town that attracted traders from China, Malay and India. In order to protect the town from attack, an octagonal walled citadel was built in the centre called Gia Dinh. It was around this time that the Khmer name of Prey Nokor was changed to Saigon.

During the mid-19th century, French colonial interests began to focus on this region and in 1859 they conquered the city. By the Treaty of Saigon (1862), the French declared Saigon the capital of French Cochinchina, and set about re-building the city along European lines. Financing for filling in canals, road building and erecting showy, colonial villas came mostly from the rice and rubber barons who were making a fortune out of plantations they controlled.

In the late 19th and early 20th century, the colonial era reached its peak, and visitors were often amazed by what became known as the ‘Paris of the Orient’, with its shady boulevards and sturdy mansions. However, the Second World War brought about unexpected change as the Japanese overran Southeast Asia. After the conflict, the British Army were given the task of clearing out the Japanese from this region and they promptly restored the French to power.

Hatred of their colonial oppressors had led to minor uprisings in the past, but it was not until the French returned to power that the fight for independence really got started. Even then, there was little fighting in the area around Saigon, but when the French were finally defeated at Dien Bien Phu in 1954 in the north, most Vietnamese thought their troubles were over.

Sadly, this was not to be. By the terms of the Geneva Accords, Vietnam was divided at the 17th parallel, splitting the country into two, and Saigon became the capital of the Republic of South Vietnam in 1955. Rather than solve the country’s problems, it just polarised the north and south and led to what was to become one of the most famous wars of the 20th century.

Though most Westerners know this conflict as the Vietnam War, for obvious reasons it is known to the Vietnamese as the American War, to distinguish it from other wars with the French and Chinese. It is also sometimes referred to as the Second Indochina War.

This was when the name Saigon appeared in regular news bulletins, as it became the main base for American troops eager for some rest and recreation after nerve-racking spells at the front line. The city remained a dangerous place, however, with student demonstrations, occasional bombings and monks immolating themselves in protest at the war.

After American troops withdrew in 1973, it was only a matter of time before the Communist north overran the south to reunify the country, and Saigon was the last city to fall in April 1975.

If you are reading this prior to your first visit to Saigon, or just need an update, the following travel tips may assist you in preparing yourself for your arrival.

Before you leave home

What to expect at the airport (Note: these comments relate to Ton Son Nhat airport in HCMC)

On the plane you should be given 4 forms:

• Arrival/departure card – white/blue duplicate form (complete this on the plane, the immigration officer will take the white copy and return the stamped blue copy to you) – when you check into hotels they will want to see the blue form.
• Baggage declaration – white/yellow duplicate form (complete this on the plane and hand to the custom’s officers who will stamp it and return the yellow copy to you). If you are bringing any CDs or video tapes you must declare them and may have to hand them over for 3 – 4 days “cultural approval”
• Visa application – you should already have a copy of your visa application form (white A4 size with your photo on the top right hand corner). If for some reason the travel agent has not returned this to you, take another copy from the airline staff and complete it. Hand the form to the immigration officer with the photo attached, who will keep it and stamp your passport. Note that the visa application is only needed if this is your first visit on a new visa. For subsequent arrivals on the same visa, you do not need to complete the application form.
• Health declaration – yellow form. You may not receive this as it is not given out consistently. Fill it in and have it in your hand as you enter the immigration hall. If someone asks for it, hand it over. However, they rarely ask for it and while you are rummaging around for it, everyone else is rushing ahead for the immigration queues.
• When you get off the plane, they will put you on a bus and bring you to the immigration hall. If for some reason you have lost your passport photos, you can have some taken in the immigration hall (about USD5).

After immigration you will see the baggage carousel. You will not see the trolleys as these will be about 150 metres ahead at the far end of the hall. The walk up to the trolleys will be useful to stretch your legs and also to check out how the customs counters work. You will also be able to see the crowds outside which can be fairly thick. Please note that baggage carousel 1 – 3 are before the trolley and carousel 4 is beyond them.

After collecting your bags you catch the eye of the customs officer nearest to a working scanner. As there is no marked lines for queuing travellers tend to mill around in a disorganised press. After stamping your baggage declaration, you will have to put all your luggage on the conveyor belt and it will be scanned for videos/electronic equipment etc. If you successfully get through the scanner, they will return the yellow form to you and you are almost finished.

If they spot something of interest, they will ask you to open your bags for inspection. If an item is removed (typically videos) for cultural approval, they will give you a receipt and instructions on when and where to pick it up (usually 3 or 4 days later).

BEFORE leaving the relative comfort of the customs hall put your passport etc away safely – as the press of friends, family, touts, taxi drivers and pickpockets can be daunting.

If you are not being met, catch a taxi – it should be about 20mins and about 60,000 dong (about USD4.50) to the down town area (in Hanoi about 40mins and about USD20). There is a currency exchange counter outside the arrivals hall – near where the taxis are. Watch out for pick pockets while you are hanging around the area.

When you arrive

• Check that your valuables are held safely
• Make sure that the blue immigration form and the yellow customs form are safely kept with your passport – you’ll need both when you leave
• If you are not staying at a hotel, make sure you register with the police (your landlord would normally do this)
• Register at the Consulate or Embassy if you will be a permanent resident
• Find out when the next Sundowner’s is on and just turn up
• Buy a new sim card for your mobile phone so you can use it in Vietnam

General survival tips

• Don’t attempt to bring in or take out any illegal items (pornography, subversive materials, weapons, etc.)
• Don’t drink snake wine if you have an ulcer (probably best not to drink it anyway)
• Expect to be asked to hand over your passport when checking into a hotel anywhere in Vietnam (it will be returned when you check out)
• Watch out for pickpockets in the main tourist and shopping areas
• Avoid drinking ice other than in upmarket restaurants
• Don’t drink tap water

Located at 118 Lac Long Quan, Tan Binh Dist., this is the most archaic pagoda, which built in 1744. Here is the inheritance of Buddhism preachers from China. Giac Lam Pagoda has architecture of unusual excellence with huge columns where golden – plated parallel sentences engraved. Within its precinct, there is collection of religion – oriented flowers and 113 Buddhism statues made from valued woods and copper. Also, it is important to mention other pagoda like Xa Loi, Vinh Nghiem, An Quang with typical features of each work.

Independence Palace

Formerly here was the Norodom camp built in 1873. It has selected for Presidential Palace in 1954 and then reconstructed in 1962 with the name Independence Palace. The site is on 2,000m2 surface combining 5 levels with 100 apartments decorating separately for each room. It is now named Independence Hall.

Sai Gon Post

The first outline of the post was found in 1863 with simple structure: postal department and telegraph department. In 1890, the building was full commenced of operation in harmony of European and Asian architecture. The clock on the main gate is as old as the building.
The museums: Connection to various museums of: Revolution, Arts, History, Women, War…

Garden of Zoology and Botanic

This is a cultural destination where the old of preservation of zoology and botanic stand at 8th rank in the world. The garden formed in 1864 on a site of 12 hectares preserving valuable botanic and zoology from continentals around the world. After 130 years of development, the garden now is enlarged to 20 hectares of botanic and nearly 22,000m2 of animal farms. Records have been made for 590 species of animals, 1,800 trees of 260 species, 23 species of local orchids, 33 cactus species and 24 kinds of bonsai. Also make a choice among Dam Sen Tourist resort, Sai Gon water – park, Suoi Tien resort for an alternative.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Designed in France with two bell – towers, the work had started on 11 April 1880 under commends of Eng. Bourard and with 2.5 million FF of investment. The chancel is in 113m lengths, 35m widths and 21m heights. On 7th and 8th December 1959, Vatican has approved the church to hold the name of the Palace Chancel. Other highlighted church can be mentioned are Jeanne d’Arc church, Protestantism church and Cho Quan church.

Cho Lon

The Big Market, as it meaning, formed in 1788 by groups of Chinese immigrated from My Tho and Pho isle on the side of Ben Nghe channel. Nowdays, Cho Lon is the trading center for all types of commodities of the Chinese – Vietnamese community as called China Town in HCMC. Other highlighted markets to mention are An Dong, Ben Thanh.

Nha Rong harbor

Standing on the estuary of Sai Gon River, it was the departure – port for President Ho chi Minh to start the way of national salvation. There are many relicts preserved in the building.

70 Km North – West from downtown, it is the typical construction of revolution troops to fight against French colonists and invading American as well as Sai Gon former forces. The secret combat trenches system had been dug under ground with the total length over 250 Km in 3 layers where the lower case reached 8 – 10m in deep. All trenches are connected to each other to set up the web under soils for hiding the soldiers. Amazingly to focus on how the life was going on down there, when most of trenches is constricted just to fit one person by one.

Stork Forest

Not yet explored but it is an ecological site on Thu Duc distric, 20 Km from the center. Here is the home of thousand storks in a wild but beautiful scene.

Sac salt – marsh Forest

The salt – marsh forest covers more than 40,000 hectares hiding plenty aquatic community of plants and wild – life. This is also the base of commandos of Vietnam’s Liberation Army during the war and has been given a name of history relict.

Lai Thieu Fruit Tree Gardens

Starting from Ho Chi Minh City, you pass the Binh Trieu Railway Station and travel for a further 20km until you reach Lai Thieu fruit tree gardens in Thuan An district, Song Be province. Lai Thieu covering an area of 1,230 ha has been famous for hundreds of years for its beautiful fruit tree gardens.

Visiting Lai Thieu you will enjoy fresh air amidst row after row of fruit trees, and sample durian, rambuttan, jackfruit, mango and other delicious tropical fruit. The district of Hung Dinh is at the middle of Lai thieu. A lot of fruit stalls are open for tourists at Cau Ngang. You can take a boat cruise along the Saigon River which is lined with verdant orchards.

Named after the late President Ho Chi Minh after the nation was reunified in 1975, this city is the locomotive of national development. Its 300-year history is dwarfed by the more stately 1000 years of the capital Ha Noi, but this youthfulness perhaps is manifest in the fact that the city seems perennially on the fast track. Busy and noisy both day and night, HCM City nevertheless still shows why it was once known as The Pearl of the Orient.

FAST FACTS

• Area: 2090 sq km
• Population: 5.1 million
• Tel.code: 08
• Geography: 1730 km south of Vietnam’s capital Hanoi, and 50 km from the Eastern sea, Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City as it is more popularly known, is Vietnam’s largest city with 17 urban and five suburban districts. The Saigon river flows through the city centre and is an important trade route.
• Climate: Saigon basically has two seasons – web and dry. The rainy season lasts from May through to November, and the dry season last from December to April. With an average temperature of 27oC, the city is a great destination for tourists all year round.
• Lifestyle: The Saigonese are a particularly friendly people. They are considered more broad-minded than their northern counterparts, more modern but yet not quite as sophisticated as those in Hanoi.
• Budget: Saigon has many tourist attractions, fine dining, clubs, but shopping is considered more expensive than other parts of Vietnam. A good time can be had for about $30 per day.
• Streets: Saigon ‘s streets are either wide and long, or a maze of narrow alleys. Traffic jams are legendary. Peak hours are between 7 and 9 am and 4 and 6 pm. Shops in the city centre open at bout 9 am, but close late, after 7pm. Saigon has a more modern look with it’ s high-rise buildings and bright neon signs. Its multicultural character is also reflected in its architecture influenced by Chinese and American designs.
• Transport: Motorbike taxi (xe om) is the best way to get about. Taxis are also very reliable and flagfall is VND 6000/km, cheaper than in the north.
• Cuisine: Saigon benefits from the influence of other Asian cuisines including Chinese, Indian and Thai. Vegetables and fruits are cheap and easily found. Durians, mangoes, rambutan, avocado and the milk fruit are southern specialties. The southerners have a sweet tooth too so you’ re likely to find street food more deverse than in other parts of Vietnam. Hu Tieu or beef noodles can be found at 199 Cach Mang Thang Tam Street; A Phu rice pancakes can be found in Thanh Da district; Trang Bang spaghetti can be found at 52 Bui Vien, D.1. Crocodile meat is a specialty at Le Van Tam park.
• Shopping: As the commercial hub of Vietnam, Saigon offers a great variety including textiles, garments, leather, footwear, processed food and handicrafts to industrial products. Saigon has a number of large trading centres, western-style malls and supermakets. Like other big cities in the world Saigon has it’s problem with petty crime. Visitors need to be alert and cautious.
• Services: As a commercial, trade and business centre, Saigon’ s service industry is quite modern and quite deverse. Tourists are particularly well catered for.
• Hideaway: The Saigonese are an open people who like to let their hair down more than once in a while. The city is noisy, the pace of life is quick and flow of motorbikes is ceaseless. It seems that the best way to overcome this is to go to even noisier bars and discos at night. Inevitably, the city draws frequent comparisions to Bangkok.

Travelers from year-round snow covered countries to Vietnam, a year-round sunny tropical country only know in books and newspapers, and European and American tourists pay a visit to the place where a long war have taken place and where people are enjoying peace. French and American veterans return to the old battle field to find some recollections. Businessmen come to find opening markets and have plans for investment. Beside the places they want to see in this opening-up country. It is positive that no foreigners overlook a visit to Hochiminh city or Saigon its former name before liberation day.

After days of struggling for a living, when returning to the motherland almost all oversea Vietnamese drop by Hochiminh City before they leave for their old hometown, which may be in a certain remote province in Central Vietnam or in the South. Traditionally hospitable Saigon opens its arms to welcome you with all affections.

Saigon is neither excessively noisy nor extremly expensive. Saigon is moderate… Saigon is making very effort to rise step-by-step.

Saigon is always glad to wait for visitors who are fond of this country or oversea Vietnamese who want to pay a visit to their homeland.